BenCab: A Day with the Master

5/9/2009

Last Saturday, my buddy, Toto Ricafort, and I went on a bike ride to Baguio. We would meet with the renowned national artist, Benedicto Cabrera (BenCab), in his personal museum along Km. 6 Asin Road, Tuba, Benguet, some 15 minutes from Baguio City. Known only to a few, this small town of Asin is a wood carvers’ village.  Other artists have settled here as well, such as Peter Pinder, an artist who specializes in leather craft and fibreglass sculptures.  Even my father, an architect and artist in his own right, likewise has a cottage in this village.  

Several articles have been published about the remarkable works and achievements of BenCab, but not so much on the architecture of the BenCab Museum and his studio within, which I found quite unique. I chanced upon the structure a year ago when it was under construction and was surprised that a development of this magnitude was ongoing in a small town like Asin. I confessed to him that I had been sneaking in to look over its progress and each time to marvel at another work of art. 

It was a beautiful Baguio morning when we got there a few minutes earlier than our scheduled appointment. BenCab was still doing his rounds around the property which is really quite a spread, as it extends to the other side of the valley.  He then took us to a promontory beside a beautiful waterfall that serves as a natural boundary defining his area. To match the allure of this cascade, there is a brook which can be viewed from his bedroom and studio on the opposite side of the grounds.  It is soothing to constantly hear the sound of falling water everywhere you go. As we walk along the terraced garden, he tells us about the vegetation and seems to know each plant by name, which leads me to another discovery: our national artist is also a gentleman farmer at heart. I guess one cannot be a great artist unless one appreciates nature as well. With the fertile land, great scenery, cool weather, and natural flowing water around you, creating art is probably just a step away.

BenCab acquired the property eight years ago, with a first parcel of land of 2000 square meters. Within three years, he was able to buy the adjoining property, thus expanding to some four hectares.  Since it is situated along two sloping hills, the spread appears much larger than it actually is. Stone ripraps are used for slope protection and is similar in appearance to the popular rice terraces of this region. He commissioned the local craftsmen to lay the stone walls and also made use of vegetation indigenous to the area to cover his landscape. Outside his walls, you can catch a glimpse of the mountain farm life where the locals still carve the slopes into flat surfaces for planting.

Within his property, the focal point is the gazebo in the middle of a duck pond.  The surrounding area is dotted with authentic Ifugao huts. He is still building another structure which shall be used for meditation and group activities like yoga and tai chi.

The Treasure chest

Through the years, BenCab has painted and acquired a collection of treasures; and to house treasures one will need a treasure chest.  That is what the museum structure is all about.  With its modern lines and maximalist façade, the light grey structure with black slate and streaks of red is not meant to blend with the surroundings, but rather complement it.   It stands out amidst the indigenous elements within and around it. He gives credit to his architect, Raymund Sarmiento, for interpreting his ideas successfully while still allowing the architect to express himself in the design. Geometric shapes that defy norms are among the prominent features. This is clearly seen in the curvilinear roofing balconies and asymmetrical facade.

Museum guests start the tour from the upper level. As one enters the lobby, one can already glimpse the essence of his work. The clean lines and simple background invite the eye to focus on the collections rather than the building. The layout of the museum follows a natural order that makes it easy to navigate even without a guide. From the lobby, the exhibition halls are quite accessible; these are the BenCab Gallery, Cordillera Gallery, and the Galleries for Philippine Contemporary Art. Smaller exhibition rooms contain other collections, such as the Maestro Gallery, Erotica Gallery, Print Gallery, Gallery Indigo, Sepia Gallery, and the Larawan Hall.

Large windows give an opportunity for his visitors to appreciate the mountainscape after going through his works and collections. These also enable natural light and fresh mountain air to lift the atmosphere inside. Railings made of light materials make for an unobstructed view.

Afterwards, he proudly offered us a taste of the BenCab brew at the museum’s Café Sabel, which overlooks the garden and the duck pond.  The café offers fresh and natural food including some local delicacies.  The coffee beans were grown, harvested, and brewed on site and the brew is definitely one of the best I’ve had.

Private enclave

When asked which of all these was his favourite spot, he took us to the inner sanctum, his private enclave, where his studio and residence is found. As you enter the inner courtyard, the favoured guests are greeted by a beautiful rock garden and a pond designed by Bobby Gopiao. The building houses his home and studio, which was designed by another architect, Edwin Gagarin. On one of the balconies just outside his bedroom is the artist’s favourite spot. We were surprised that the view was even better here than in any of the other picturesque locations. This moved me to ask if the beautiful scenery inspires him to work even more. Our witty host with a great sense of humour replied: “Not really, because it makes me want to just sit here and admire the view”.

In our short meeting with this great artist, his humility and sincerity became evident. From the way he spends time with the people he meets, his promptness in our meetings and by the way he speaks of and gives credit to the people who have helped him, he shows an intrinsic respect and generosity for others. Even without the treasure of his talent and artistry, merely by the person that he is, he still inspires and will continue to inspire others.